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Materials & Sourcing

Understanding Clothing Fabric Types: A Complete Sourcing Guide for Brands

How to choose the right fabric for your clothing line — from natural fibers to technical synthetics. What to specify, what to avoid, and what factories need from you.

July 31, 2026 · 10 min read

Table of Contents

1. Why Fabric Choice Matters More Than You Think

Fabric is the single biggest variable in garment quality, cost, and customer satisfaction. The same t-shirt pattern sewn in 180gsm combed cotton vs. 120gsm carded cotton will feel, drape, and wear completely differently. Yet many brands choose fabric based on a swatch photo or a supplier's recommendation — without understanding what they're actually buying.

Getting fabric right means understanding three things:

A factory can only make what you specify. If you say "cotton t-shirt," you could get anything from a cheap 120gsm scratchy jersey to a premium 240gsm ringspun heavyweight. The difference is your margin, your brand reputation, and your customer return rate.

2. Natural Fibers: Cotton, Linen, Silk, Wool

Natural

Cotton

The world's most common apparel fiber. Breathable, soft, absorbent, and easy to dye. Available in enormous quality and price range — from cheap carded cotton to premium Egyptian or Pima.

✓ Breathable✓ Soft✓ Biodegradable✗ Wrinkles✗ Shrinks
Natural

Linen

Made from flax. The strongest natural fiber, exceptionally breathable and moisture-wicking. Gets softer with washing. The "summer fabric" of choice for premium brands.

✓ Ultra-breathable✓ Strong✓ Ages well✗ Wrinkles easily✗ Expensive
Natural

Silk

Luxury fiber from silkworm cocoons. Unmatched drape, sheen, and softness. Used for premium shirts, dresses, scarves, and linings. Requires delicate care.

✓ Luxurious drape✓ Hypoallergenic✓ Temperature regulating✗ Delicate✗ Very expensive
Natural

Wool

Natural insulator from sheep fleece. Merino wool is the premium standard for base layers and outerwear — warm when wet, odor-resistant, and temperature-regulating.

✓ Insulating✓ Odor-resistant✓ Moisture-wicking✗ Itchy (non-merino)✗ Requires care

Cotton Quality Grades for Brands

Not all cotton is equal. Here's what the labels actually mean:

Type Description Best For Price Tier
Carded cotton Short fibers, rougher feel, more pilling Budget basics, promotional items $
Combed cotton Short fibers removed, smoother, stronger Standard t-shirts, casual wear $$
Ringspun cotton Twisted into fine yarns, softer, finer Premium t-shirts, fashion basics $$$
Supima / Pima Extra-long staple, exceptionally soft and durable Luxury basics, premium brands $$$$
Organic cotton Grown without synthetic pesticides (GOTS certified) Sustainable brands, eco-conscious consumers $$$

3. Synthetic Fibers: Polyester, Nylon, Spandex

Synthetic

Polyester

The most widely used synthetic fiber in apparel. Strong, wrinkle-resistant, quick-drying, and cheap. Recycled polyester (rPET) is increasingly common for sustainable brands.

✓ Durable✓ Wrinkle-resistant✓ Affordable✗ Not breathable✗ Microplastic shedding
Synthetic

Nylon

Stronger and more elastic than polyester. Used for activewear, swimwear, and outerwear. ECONYL® is a recycled version made from fishing nets and industrial waste.

✓ High strength✓ Elastic recovery✓ Quick-dry✗ Static cling✗ Heat sensitive
Synthetic

Spandex (Lycra / Elastane)

Never used alone — always blended at 2-20% with other fibers. Provides stretch and recovery. Essential for leggings, fitted garments, and activewear.

✓ Exceptional stretch✓ Shape retention✓ Lightweight✗ Degrades with chlorine✗ Heat sensitive

4. Semi-Synthetic Fibers: Rayon, Modal, TENCEL™

These fibers start from natural cellulose (wood pulp) but are chemically processed. They combine the soft hand-feel of natural fibers with some performance benefits of synthetics.

Semi-Synthetic

Rayon (Viscose)

Soft, drapey, and breathable. Often used as a cheaper alternative to silk. However, conventional viscose production uses toxic chemicals and is linked to deforestation.

✓ Soft and drapey✓ Breathable✓ Affordable✗ Weak when wet✗ Environmental concerns
Semi-Synthetic

Modal

A more refined version of rayon. Softer, stronger, and more shrink-resistant. Often used for underwear and premium basics.

✓ Very soft✓ Colorfast✓ Shrink-resistant✗ Less durable than cotton
Semi-Synthetic

TENCEL™ Lyocell

The gold standard of semi-synthetics. Produced in a closed-loop system with 99% solvent recovery. Biodegradable, exceptionally soft, and moisture-wicking. The premium choice for sustainable brands.

✓ Eco-friendly production✓ Exceptionally soft✓ Moisture-wicking✓ Biodegradable✗ Premium price

5. Fabric Blends: Why Most Clothing Uses Mixed Fibers

Pure fabrics are rare in commercial apparel. Most garments use blends to combine the best properties of multiple fibers:

Blend Ratio Why It Works Common Use
Cotton-Polyester 60/40 or 50/50 Cotton softness + polyester durability & wrinkle resistance T-shirts, polo shirts, workwear
Cotton-Spandex 95/5 to 98/2 Cotton comfort + stretch for fitted garments Skinny jeans, fitted tees, dresses
Polyester-Spandex 88/12 to 92/8 Durability + high stretch + quick-dry Leggings, activewear, swimwear
Cotton-Modal 50/50 Cotton durability + modal softness & drape Premium basics, loungewear
Wool-Polyester 70/30 Wool warmth + polyester durability & price reduction Suiting, outerwear
Linen-Cotton 55/45 Linen breathability + cotton softness & less wrinkling Summer shirts, casual blazers

Rule of thumb for blends: The dominant fiber (usually 50%+) determines the primary characteristics. The secondary fiber modifies specific properties — stretch, durability, cost, or hand-feel.

6. What to Specify When Ordering Fabric

Factories need precise specifications. Vague requests like "soft cotton" will get you whatever the factory has in stock. Here's what to include in your fabric spec sheet:

Fiber composition: Exact blend percentages (e.g., "95% combed cotton, 5% spandex")

Fabric construction:

Fabric weight (GSM): Grams per square meter. Critical for hand-feel and cost.

Yarn count: Higher count = finer yarn = softer, more expensive fabric. Common range: 20s-40s for basics, 60s+ for premium.

Color & dye method: Specify Pantone code, and whether you want piece-dyed, yarn-dyed, or garment-dyed.

Finishing treatments: Pre-shrunk, enzyme wash, silicone softener, water repellent, anti-microbial, UV protection.

Certifications: OEKO-TEX Standard 100, GOTS (organic), GRS (recycled), BCI (Better Cotton Initiative).

7. How to Choose Fabric for Your Product Line

For basics & t-shirts: Start with 180-200gsm combed cotton or cotton-modal blend. It's the sweet spot of quality, cost, and customer satisfaction.

For activewear: Polyester-spandex or nylon-spandex blends. Specify moisture-wicking finish and four-way stretch.

For premium/luxury: Ringspun cotton, Supima, silk, or TENCEL™. Budget for 30-50% higher fabric costs.

For sustainable lines: Organic cotton (GOTS), recycled polyester (GRS), TENCEL™, or hemp. Get Transaction Certificates for every order.

For summer collections: Linen, linen-cotton blends, or lightweight cotton voile (120-150gsm).

For workwear & uniforms: Cotton-polyester blends for durability and easy care. Specify wrinkle-resistant finish.

Get Expert Fabric Sourcing Support

GoVoloom sources over 500 fabric types from certified mills across China. We help brands specify the right material for their product, budget, and customer — with full certification documentation.

Request Fabric Samples

Frequently Asked Questions

What GSM should I choose for a premium t-shirt?

For a premium feel, go with 180-220gsm ringspun or combed cotton. Below 160gsm feels cheap and flimsy. Above 240gsm enters "heavyweight" territory — great for streetwear but too thick for everyday basics.

Is 100% cotton better than a cotton-polyester blend?

Not necessarily. 100% cotton is softer, more breathable, and biodegradable — but it wrinkles, shrinks, and wears out faster. A 60/40 cotton-poly blend gives you better durability and shape retention at a lower price, with a slight compromise on breathability. The "best" choice depends on your product and customer expectations.

How do I know if a fabric sample is good quality?

Four quick tests: (1) Touch: Does it feel rough or smooth? Cheap fabrics feel synthetic or cardboard-like. (2) Stretch: Pull gently — quality knits recover quickly. (3) Light: Hold up to light — uneven thickness or see-through spots indicate poor quality. (4) Wash: Wash the sample 3-5 times. Pilling, fading, or shrinkage >5% is a red flag.

What's the difference between jersey and interlock?

Both are knit cotton fabrics, but with different structures. Jersey (single knit):strong> One set of needles, lighter, more stretch, tends to curl at edges. Interlock (double knit): Two sets of needles, thicker, more stable, smoother surface, less stretch. Interlock is preferred for polo shirts and higher-end basics.

Can I change fabrics between production runs?

Yes, but it requires new sample approval. Even a 10% change in fiber composition can alter fit, shrinkage, and dye uptake. Always re-sample and re-fit when changing fabric — don't assume the same pattern will work identically.

How much does fabric cost per meter for apparel production?

Approximate ranges (FOB China, per meter, bulk orders):

  • Carded cotton jersey: $2.50-4.00
  • Combed cotton jersey: $3.50-5.50
  • Ringspun cotton: $5.00-8.00
  • Organic cotton: $6.00-10.00
  • Polyester jersey: $1.50-3.00
  • Recycled polyester: $3.00-5.00
  • TENCEL™: $6.50-12.00
  • Silk: $15.00-40.00+
GoVoloom Materials Team

Sourcing fabrics from 500+ certified mills. Helping brands choose the right material for their product, budget, and values.

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